Silk and linen is a match made in heaven. I’ve always loved silk but linen…not so much. You probably know what I’m about to say, perhaps even feel the same way?

It’s the incessant creasing! After an epic ironing session, my beautiful linen piece is creased the moment I sit down. Arrrgh drives me nuts! Well, it used to but not anymore. I finally convinced myself the creasing is part of its charm. Alternatively, a linen-mix fabric is usually resistant to creasing and many are sustainably produced too. In any case, there is good linen and bad linen.

Belgian, Scottish, Irish and French linen is believed to be the best in the world and tends to soften delicately over time. And although it becomes ever more luxurious to the touch, it remains a robust material. Hence linen is known to last many lifetimes and is traditionally handed down from Mother to Daughter. In fact, it was first used to wrap another type of Mummy, the Pharaohs of Ancient Egypt!

You’ll also find some inexpensive linen that tends to be very coarse. A stiff fabric that’s literally impossible to iron smooth. More often than not, this cheap linen is cheap for a reason making it a bad eco choice. Recently I discovered there are two different ways to produce linen.

THE HIGHS AND LOWS OF LINEN

Linen is made from cellulose fibres of the flax plant. There is very little machinery involved as it’s still mostly produced by hand, making it labour intensive. Consequently, manufacturing usually takes place where you find cheap labour. Clearly it’s important to know your linen comes from a place of fair trade where workers earn a living wage.

Processing the flax plant is called retting. This is when bacteria literally rots the pectin that binds the fibres. The crucial point here is whether this is achieved naturally or with chemicals. The process is carried out in a large body of water, such as a river, pool or tank. The environmental impact of linen is low if it is naturally retted. However, this option takes longer and typically results in a more expensive material. Therefore when you see cheap linen clothing it usually means it has been chemically retted. That process washes chemicals directly into natural waterways, poisons marine life and ultimately ends up on the dinner plate. Not good is it? You can add to that toxic pollution if the fabric is also chemically dyed.

In terms of production, linen uses five to twenty times less water than cotton. The flax plant is hardy and needs no irrigation, pesticides or fertilizer. It respects the earth and doesn’t deplete soil quality which makes it ideal for crop rotation and organic farming.

When it comes to linen there are variables to determine how eco-friendly it truly is. Yes, it is definitely a better choice than cotton but perhaps not better than organic cotton depending on the source. There is most certainly a difference in price point although I can’t put a price on sustainability. For me, it’s no longer a matter of choice. If I can’t afford the sustainable option I just won’t buy anything. Let’s be clear, this is not a sacrifice. I buy more than I actually need anyway and there is always the possibility of secondhand. Undoubtedly the most sustainable choice is preloved linen and with linen that is a plus since it improves so marvelously with age. I prefer secondhand leather for the same reason.

As I research fabrics and manufacturing more, I realize the importance of cradle to cradle production values. Fashion brands that adhere to the circular philosophy are doing the least harm and that means so am I.

LINEN BASICS TO ELEVATE

No longer the reserve of boxy basics, we now see linen used in more sophisticated shapes. Emerging designers such as Heidi Merrick and Elementy are creating beautiful collections for the style conscious/eco-conscious Woman. While you can find gorgeous pieces like this dress at The White Company and these cute paper bag shorts at Tribe Alive. If you’re like me and starting from scratch,  Eileen Fisher has an entire range of organic linen to choose from. The next piece I’d like to add to my small collection is a simple white linen shirt from Everlane.

How have I never owned a white linen shirt? Oh that’s right…crease phobia. Ack, so glad that’s over! I can picture so many ways to wear this shirt. It’s crazy versatile especially for Summer when I like my arms protected from the sun. The only other linen item I feel compelled to buy is a black full circle skirt. Dôen has a rather ravishing wrap style coming soon if anyone else is interested. For some reason, this style reminds me of a young Sophia Loren and I cannot wait to get my hands on it!

And so it goes, these are pieces to treasure and restyle forever and do you know what else? Linen is also moth resistant! How brilliant is that?

OUTFIT DETAILS

This pair of Gucci shoes are old to me but even older than that! I bought them secondhand on Vestiaire Collective. A great way to ensure your designer shoes last the distance is to have an expert cobbler on speed dial. I always have a thin rubber sole put on my shoes especially the ones that are already very thin. My lush silk shirt is this one from DAI that comes with a detachable black tie. As with linen, silk is an incredibly versatile closet staple and definitely worth allocating the upper end of your budget to. The silk blouse has infinite pairing possibilities that range from casual denim shorts to a formal maxi skirt.

Finally, my belted pants are from Maje. I bought them in a larger size so I have the option to wear them high on my waist or low on my hips. Sometimes it pays to size up for an alternate look. I also do this with jumpers and shirts.

Ciao Tessori xx