Do you know what the word sustainable actually means and what makes something sustainable?
In 1987 the Brundtland Commission of the United Nations defined sustainable as the following –
~It must meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs~
Over the last decade or so, the word sustainable has been co-opted and redefined to suit capitalism. Corporate interests put the emphasis on human need before the environmental one because consumers like the way it makes them feel. Almost anything can be described as sustainable with a little creative writing, so is it any wonder brands and corporations attach the word to their products and actions? After all, sustainability can seemingly legitimize production that perhaps isn’t entirely legit. Ironically making the word so ubiquitous has rendered it meaningless, not least in terms of climate change.
The origin of the word dates back to the German, Nachhaltigkeit, meaning “sustained yield.” It first appeared in a handbook of forestry published in 1713 and was used to mean never harvesting more than the forest can regenerate. The translated term appeared in English beginning in the mid-19th century. But the modern perception of sustainability has since been pushed beyond forestry with a broader stroke to encompass the entire ecosystem. We now think of sustainability to mean – Take only what you need from nature & give back what you plan to take again. We think circular. So before the product is even made there’s an eco-friendly plan for its end of life. That could be to pass it on to someone else, to recycle the material, to compost it or to make it into something else. In addition to the environmental toll of manufacturing, the people involved in all stages of production must be treated fairly & paid appropriately. Therefore sustainable development is more of an ethos than a single practice.
The problem I have with “sustainable development” is the paradox of both those words put together. How can we sustain development… indefinitely?
Furthermore, it’s far too easy to reduce a single sustainable act to the definition of sustainability. When Jeff Bezos announces grand eco statements like his procurement of 100,000 electric vehicles (which by the way are from Rivian, a company HE invested in) the reality is, that barely makes a blip on the environmental impact of his empire.
If the sustainable act does NOT outweigh the other unsustainable business practices, this cannot be considered sustainable. Sustainability is not on a spectrum Jeffery, you can’t give with one hand while taking with the other.
Is it possible to define sustainable fashion?
“Sustainable” is a word that is often misused by businesses, sometimes deliberately sometimes not. It’s particularly difficult to recognize when referring to the fashion industry. The business of fashion has become awash with green. Faux sustainable capsules that may include some recycled materials but aren’t entirely made from a sustainable source or an ethical supply chain, really aren’t sustainable. While recycling is part of the solution it is also part of the problem. Once the answer to over consumption, recycling has now become a separate issue of how to deal with excess. There just isn’t enough recycling to combat the vast amount of production, we simply can’t recycle our way out of waste. Repurposing recycled materials like polyester, alone won’t clean the slate of its original production. Shouldn’t sustainable fashion brands try to work away from plastic-based materials not towards them?
Perhaps sustainability shouldn’t be the end goal at all? Perhaps it’s just our first step beyond extraction? Extraction of raw materials from nature will always be harmful so isn’t that, by definition, unsustainable?
After all, REGENERATION is the ideal if we want to reverse climate change. It stands to reason that our objective should be a better world, not maintaining the one we have created thus far? Moving forward for future generations means repairing the damage we’ve already done to Earth and not causing any more. Maybe it’s time to switch our language again?
Did you know that fashion can be regenerative? Isn’t that amazing? Fashion brands that give back more than they take from Earth, now that is progress.
BLOUSE → Winser London SKIRT → Dôen SHOES → ATP atelier
sources : The New York Times The Huffington Post
Comments ( 6 )
Emma Peach
It’s easy to kid ourselves that recycling is the answer – or at least a big part of the answer – but if it’s expensive then companies will take the cheaper and more damaging option of using new materials. But even if we do recycle, can that material be recycled again? It has to go somewhere at the end of its life. I now try to replace the idea of “throwing something away” with “sending it somewhere else”, and that makes me think much more about what I buy – not just fashion, but household goods too. The shops don’t make it easy though!
Emma xxx
http://www.style-splash.com
MT
I love your comment so much Emma! Your question to yourself is inspiring & such a great way to stay conscious. Yes, I wonder too, how many times can a material actually be recycled before quality becomes compromised? Is this option even sustainable? All of the questions you raise and the point of brands making it difficult for consumers are the reasons I’m digging deeper into regenerative practices. I’ll put it in a post soon, still getting information. It’s a very exciting development for the global north that Indigenous people have been practising for millennia.
No Fear of Fashion
I am still trying to do better and better, inspite of my shopping addiction. This week I invited a friend to give me styling tips and reuse the items in my wardrobe in another way. Still not there yet, but getting more conscious day by day.
In the meantime you are dressed to the nines. I think I remember that blouse (you wore it on shorts?). The skirt is new to me and absolutely stunning. I checked out the brand; they do beautiful clothes. Alas for me: America. Never mind, I will continue my search here.
Greetje
MT
Now that is a terrific idea! I’d love to see more people share creative ideas to re-style their wardrobes. We can easily get in a rut with outfit repeating, which I think is often the reason for tossing something out. My blouse is about 5 years old, I wear it with literally anything from jeans to skirts of all shapes & of course trousers. It always makes my outfit look classic. As for the skirt, that’s newer. I bought it 2 years ago and again wear it a lot with different types of tops in all seasons. I love it most in winter with my black turtle neck and knee-high boots.
Lizzy
You have been instrumental in making me rethink, or at least, be much more aware of my shopping practises and my consumption of everything fulmar water to shampoo to clothing. And I thank you. Our daughters’ generation is much better than ours is and this fills me with hope. Gorgeous outfit. As Greetje said, I remember how you styled your blouse with shorts for the Winser London shoot xxx
MT
I have? Wow Liz, thank you for saying that! xxx