CAN FASHION DO MORE THAN JUST BE SUSTAINABLE?

Over the last couple of years it’s become pretty obvious that fashion and climate intersect. Or should I say, collide?

The fashion industrial complex is arguably one of the top 3 responsible for the climate crisis. It works on a business model of overproduction and overconsumption driven by the exploitation of workers and nature. Would you believe we’re now even buying clothes that the makers haven’t yet been paid for making? This industry is rife with abuse and modern slavery is at its core.

Global citizens, shoppers or consumers, whatever you want to call us, the collective we – need to raise our expectations of brands responsibilty for this. Even those brands working on sustainability should do more than just be sustainable.

But it’s not all climate doom. As the truth escapes, outrage grows and many brands are switching to sustainable practices. Important changes such as a smaller supply chain and more transperancy. Using fewer deleterious materials, reducing waste and sourcing from ethical factories all play a major role in limitimg harm.

However, while the number of sustainable brands rises, the new question should be “what comes next?” Sustainability in and of itself, cannot be viewed as the ultimate business model, despite the best of intentions.

Think about it, what are we trying to sustain exactly? Companies, corporations and brands must think, indeed ACT beyond sustainability and get into the circular. Modelling their businesses not on sustainability but on nature, Mother herself. As in the eco-system. Where nothing is wasted and everything has a purpose. Each component must work within a closed loop by design. From conception to the end of its usefulness. At which point it will either be used elsewhere, made into something new or go back into the soil. Finally, the goal is to give back to Earth in some way shape or form. For example this could be regeneratively farming cotton. Which is the antithesis of conventional capitalist production → extraction followed by waste.

Indigenous peoples have been living in the regenerative way and protecting the land for thousands of years. Practicing agroforestry and permaculture by working with the natural ecosystem of a specific region to conserve not extract. As with nature, Indigenous cultures never take more than is needed, never waste anything and always give back. They’re more than just sympathetic to nature, they’re as one with the natural world.

What’s more, Indigenous led resistance to 21 fossil fuel projects in the U.S and Canada over the past decade has stopped or delayed an amount of greenhouse gas pollution equivalent to at least one-quarter of annual U.S and Canadian emmissions. Dallas Goldtooth from the Indigenous Environmental Network says –

“What Indigenous peoples are providing is a roadmap for our allies and supporters to adopt as a way to address the climate crisis”

It’s time for the rest of us to repair and make amends for past behaviours. Our disastrous decisions and mindless consumption is the reason why we are here. If we’re to carry on sharing this amazing planet with all life, we absolutely must reverse course and start living connected to it as the rest of nature does.

Our home is on fire. Urgent action is needed beyond just sustaining this fire, our very survival depends upon it. So we now ask the fashion industry to go beyond the point of being sustainable. Because, well it really isn’t.

But what does that look like in fashion? How can brands do more than just sustain? Moreover where do we, the buyer, fit in? Can we even afford to buy better, or would this completely price us out of shopping altogether?

OK first let’s look at some brands that have already moved past the sustainable and see how their business models work.

THE BIG FAVORITE

Ever wondered what to do with old undies besides using them as cleaning rags? Well Philly brand, The Big Favorite has given us the answer and it couldn’t be easier.

The Big Favorite produces great fitting, long lasting underwear in super soft pima cotton that they recycle after you’re done with them. The brand specifically uses pima cotton for its longer staple fibre which makes it easier to break down in the recycling process. So instead of sending your knackered knickers to landfill, just scan the QR on the garment tag to create a free shipping label. Then post your clean undies back to The Big Favorite where they’ll credit towards any future purchase you make. Alternatively, you can donate your rewards to a good cause. The texiles are then sanitised, shredded and turned into brand new yarn. The Big Favorite says –

“Pima Cotton is the new Aluminium.”

In addition to recycling, TBF uses just three colours in order to limit the dyeing process and the harm it causes. They also understand that a climate conscious brand cares about people too. So they work with suppliers in Peru who pay fair wages and DE&I is equally important for their team at home.

While TBF has removed plastic and synthetics from their fabrics they’re also trying to make elastic waistbands a thing of the past plus reduce their entire carbon footprint until they become carbon neutral.

PEOPLE TREE

People Tree has been a personal favourite brand of mine for years. I have a fabulous pair of wide leg pants (see this post) and a maxi skirt (see here) that I wore with a black tank all summer long, in fact I’m wearing it now! Both of those pieces are from the V&A collection that People Tree creates from the archives of the Victoria and Albert Museum London. Affordable, collectable and infinitely wearable – that’s how I would describe the People Tree V&A collection, indeed that’s what I always consider when buying my clothes.

This UK company has been working on sustainability since before it was fashionable and continues to push the envelope to this day. For over thirty years, People tree has put people and planet before profit, it’s a label you can trust that gives back to their community. Read more about their story here.

If you’d like to invest in a piece of organic clothing, now is the time because this month PT is offering a discount. Just use code SEPTEMBER10 at checkout with any of the items on this page.

CHNGE

Protect kids not guns, Women don’t owe you shit, Black Lives Matter, No Human is Illegal, Fuck Racism, Sexism, Fascism, Homophobia, Transphobia, Xenophobia….What’s not to love here? CHNGE is a label and a belief system in one, indeed the two collide in fantastic style. Wear your heart on your sleeve, while the money you paid for this clothing goes to support your values.

This is organic cotton, fair trade streetwear making an impact. First up by doing less harm to the planet using GOTS Certified Organic Cotton. That means zero harmful chemical or pesticides while also saving over 500 gallons of water for every shirt they produce. They also use 62% less energy and have 70% less acidification potential than conventional cotton shirts. What’s more, this clothing is offset to 100% carbon neutrality.

Take notice of packaging when you determine how much effort a brand is making in its journey to circularity. On this too CHNGE does not disappoint. Their packaging is made with 100% post consumer recycled paper and is 100% recyclable. The packaging is the brown colour inherent to it’s recycled nature, it’s never bleached. Additionally, the print on the packaging is from water based inks. And the products inside each mailer are wrapped in poly bags made from 100% recycled plastic. I know all this for a fact because I’ve bought a lot from CHNGE.

Last winter I was looking for long sleeved tops for my two teens when CHNGE caught my eye on Instagram. I bought two tops on the spot, shortly followed by another two each for the kids. Later that year I purchased this tank, summer tee, a hoodie and track pants for my 16 year old daughter who rarely shows any interest in clothes but absolutely adores this style. My children live in sweats and tees and these are extraordinary quality for the price, that will undoubtedly last many years. The kids are literally set for life!

Naturally, CHNGE only partners with suppliers that share their vision for sustainability, workers rights, and transparency. All of their clothing is produced at a fairtrade factory that’s certified by the Indian Green Building Council, Global Recycling Standard, and has achieved platinum level in the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) process.

In keeping with its inclusive mantra, these clothes are non-gender conforming and sized 2XS – 4XL. Like I said, what’s not to love here? Check out some more amazing designs and support a brand making a difference.

CHRISTY DAWN

A label that has truly embraced circularity, Christy Dawn literally regenerated a farm in India. After successfully using dead stock to create their collection, the company decided they could do more than merely save discarded textiles from landfill. They could regenerate the soil and grow organic cotton. So they leased 24 acres of depleted land in India and worked with farmers and artisans to replenish that soil through traditional practices.

Together, Christy Dawn and Oshadi Farm has grown organic cotton – ginned, woven, vegetable-dyed, and block-printed it using ancient methods in harmony with nature. In the two years since they began this venture they’ve increased biodiversity in the soil and implemented indigenous practices of regenerative agriculture. By addressing the climate crisis within their business, CD has already managed to draw down more than 66 tons of carbon from the atmosphere.

As you’ll see from a quick scroll through the CD website, their dresses are utterly divine and most definitely heirloom pieces. However, don’t discount the more practical, yet stylish loungewear on offer. Last year during the height of covid, I bought the Sonny Suit in organic cotton, non-toxic dyed navy blue. It arrived packaged as if from a dear friend of the Earth and I bloody lived in it. This winter, I’ll probably do the same.

ANOTHER TOMORROW

Aesthetically minimal but ethically maximal, Another Tomorrow is all about transparency. Certified B Corp and participant of 1% for the Planet, this new brand is guided by a value system based on three pillars – human, animal, and environmental welfare. Their materials are carefully chosen for the lightest footprint on Earth. Another Tomorrow says –

“We have a value system based on empathy for the Earth and its inhabitants”

Uber chic, paired down designs using organic linen from regenerative flax farms in France. Additionally, AT uses corozo nut buttons instead of conventional horn buttons. They come from a farm in Ecuador that naturally dyes and sun dries the nuts after they fall from the trees. This negates the need for ovens or to cut and harvest any of the palms.

For their strong committment to animal welfare, Another Tomorrow only uses recycled cashmere. It is a mixture of pre and post consumer recycled materials, all sourced from Italy. The brand ensured its supplier is Global Recycling Standard Certified and therefore audited by a third party for social and environmental standards.